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01/10/2024
A pleasant, generally quiet, west facing crag with some worthwhile rock and a nice outlook towards Austwick, Austwick Beck and Ingleborough. The base of the crag is wooded and this shelters much of the climbing.
The main buttress offers some good generally lower grade climbing while the climbs further right are typically shorter and more intense. The crag is generally solid but the upper half of the main crag and the upper part of the buttress around Zeppelin has a more broken and vegetated character. There is some loose rock especially in the upper half of the crag and a few large unstable looking blocks on the main buttress as well as further right and left but this is no worse than other crags in the area and is typical of this type of limestone. Where these are encountered they are best avoided which is usually easily done. One to note is the large flake by the tree on the popular Crossroads Buttress which can be bypassed by climbing the nice groove just left.
Loose rock has also been recorded by other parties around Grandad. The crag is sometimes used by organised groups and this hazard should be born in mind when climbing with inexperienced climbers on the crag. The top of the crag generally has adequate belays and a set of hexes will prove useful in setting these up.
