You can have your cake but you can’t eat it!

16th October 2017 by Steve Wilson 2 Comments

Exciting times at the clubs Burbage North meet with John enticing Phil in to an experiment on Bilberry Cake. With my climbing partner Andy Mac having headed off home I went over to join up with John and Phil. ‘Don’t tell him the grade we are conducting a scientific experiment’ said John from the top of Bilberry Buttress. Interesting I thought and quickly had a glance in the definitive guide to find: Bilberry Cake – E1.

‘Piece of cake’ was Phil’s verdict after seconding the route. Well Phil and I were not going to miss out on this one – this could be a first E1 lead for both of us. Minutes later and we were both basking in glory. Three successful leads of E1 grade.

Surely, there could only be one possible answer to this sudden success. I had got better. In the space a few short minutes my climbing abilities must have rocketed. After all it is well known progress is not always linear – so why not! What next Flying Buttress Direct, Parthian shot maybe!

Unfortunately the cake was about to go a little stale. Time for Phil to look on UKC. ‘HVS’ he exclaimed. A tactful response as I had threatened to make John walk home if it was less than HVS. Alas all those ill-founded dreams of having become a climbing god came back to earth once home – UKC: Bilberry Cake VS 4c.

Still overall, it was brilliant day out. Great weather despite the rain in West Yorkshire it was dry further south – helped by a very stiff breeze. I had a great time climbing with Andy Mac and Phil with John.

Climbs included Right Twin Crack (HVD 4a), Left Twin Crack (S 4a), First Crack (S 4b), Alpha Crack (HS 4b), Bilberry Wall (VD), Falstaff’s Innominate (S 4b), Still Orange (S 4a), Lieback (HS) and of course Bilberry Cake (E1 – 5a)

John belaying Steve on the immensely popular Bilberry Cake

Cor blimey its Burbage

11th October 2017 by Steve Wilson 1 Comment

With our resident Cockney Brian unable to run the Burbage meet it has fallen to me to take up the role. So if you’re sat there on your Jack Jones why not come to the Ronan Keating. A fun day of cockney rhyming slang with some climbing thrown in. Weather looking good at the moment. If you are interested then it would be really helpful if you can let me know by replying to this post, emailing or texting me or even just getting on the dog and bone. You can find my details in the members list. The meet is this Saturday 14th October.

Steve

The Roaches – Meet report

26th September 2017 by Steve Wilson Leave a Comment

Fantastic climbing and great weather conditions at the Roaches this weekend. This is a brilliant place to climb with big impressive routes on the worlds best rock. I climbed with Phil. Andy Mac climbed with Mrs Mac. Other CMC members may possibly have been climbing with the local wallabies it is difficult to know for sure!

First it was Black Velvet (S) that starts up the classic rock route ‘Black and Tans’ and possibly is even better? After that Maud’s Garden (HVD) another 3 star route. Fern Crack (S) next, great start, slightly overhanging but with huge holds. It has a truly awful finish traversing over a slippery mud caked slab and finishing up a grotty green groove . Chicken Run (HVD) followed – heed the name – fairly easy climbing but don’t fall off! Finally Damascus crack (HS) with a tricky finish at the top of the main crack.

All in all a great day out.

Me and Phil after climbing Fern Crack with my son Tom on right.

The Roaches Sunday

21st September 2017 by Steve Wilson 1 Comment

At last the moment we have all been waiting for! With the onset of cooler weather the gritone season has arrived and what better place to start than at the Roaches. Magnificent imposing buttresses of superb natural grit up to 30m high.

For those of you not climbing through Kilnseys main overhang in order to get your picture in the Yorkshire post ( see ‘Photographer looking for Climbers’) then why not get down there this Sunday. I already know of several interested club members but please let me know if you think you can make it. Post here or login and get my telephone number/ email from the members list.

I will be coming over from Derby on Sunday morning so I’m afraid you may need to make your own car sharing arrangements etc.

I’m intending on being there for around 10.30 am at the car park below the Whillans hut.

Rain. What rain?

13th August 2017 by Brian Lewis 1 Comment

Not being ones to shy away from a wee bit of precipitation, Barnoldswick’s hardest climbing lass and southern softy who knows no better headed up to Moughton Nab for some damn fine sporting sports climbs. Climbing jeans are not to be recommended walking through knee high sodden grass but were we deterred? Pha! Made of harder stuff. Despite a a few “leaky” routes we made good progress through a fine selection with the skies opening each time Vikki reached the third bolt. 6 routes later we conceded defeat though glad to have made the effort rather than wimping out ha ha! (where were you all?), and retired for a right nice cuppa tea. Aqua climbing maybe a niche sport but don’t knock it. Damn fine views of distant blue skies as well