With Barrel Buttress not described in Rockfax, this buttress no longer gets the traffic it once did. Routes have become somewhat overgrown, nevertheless a number of the classic lines remain clean and make a worthwhile outing. Flakey (HS**) and Nettle Crack (VS*) have some strenuous moves at the grade but are good value, however topping out of the 6m high Spider Wall (HS**?) is not to be recommended without a short diversion left to place gear in Straight Crack!
From Pavey to Stanage
Names have been withheld to protect the innocent, as well as the guilty!
We should have been going to Pavey, but Sunday’s meet eventually took place at Stanage after a last minute review of the weather forecast indicated that plastic could be off the menu with the Peak seeming to offer decent climbing conditions.
Five of us travelled down and were surprised to see another member of the CMC belaying atop Tinker’s Crack (and it is a tinker, especially if you’re tall!). This prodigal was last seen hauling on iron in the Dolomites, but the ferrous injection hadn’t blunted his appetite for grit as he’d already completed his third route before we were even geared up.
The prospective member in the group quickly set about trying to make up the route deficit by whipping up Castle Crack at a very speedy pace, which brought a greenish tinge to his partner’s face as he realised that he could be in for a hard time with this new hot shot.
The remaining three of us took a more leisurely approach to proceedings, although I was encouraged to delay my late morning snack in favour of getting a route in. Various reasons were put forward as to why I should lead, and never wishing to disappoint a lady, I set forth on a Black Hawk variation. Arriving at the top I understood why the prodigal had failed to comprehend my earlier shouts to him as the wind was blasting in from the west and creating its own version of white noise. Unlike the prodigal and the hot shot, my partners’ appetite for the grit appeared to be less finely honed, and one member of the team indulged in some rather unseemly behaviour by first performing what may have been an Argentine Tango on the traverse, then an impression of Toulouse Lautrec on the final ledge before topping out with a gasp.
I definitely needed sustenance after this but was disappointed to find that my carefully prepared egg mayonnaise sandwiches had inadvertently been left at home in the fridge. The hot shot offered to share with me his ready-made curry in a bag, but the very thought reduced my appetite quite dramatically.
Things deteriorated further on Black Hawk Hell Crack when ropes were made into taut bowstrings before one member, who has previously led this route in good style, resorted to direct aid at the crux. I was glad to be wrapped up in six layers and multiple hoods as, despite the cold, my cheeks blushed red at such sacreligeous behaviour from my seconds.
Further aberrations were noted on Cakestand where a serious amount of flanking was in evidence prior to the crux, but amazingly both my recalcitrant seconds turned into gritstone goddesses and performed the final committing high step and rock-over in fine style. Maybe there’s hope for them yet.
The prodigal departed at this point with eight routes under his belt, four of them at VS standard, which made our haul of two Severes and a V Diff seem rather feeble by comparison. The hot shot had been matching him though, with five routes in the same time period, so having burned off his original partner, who to be fair, left with a smile on his face, he teamed up with me for a final foray on Heather Wall. Meanwhile the girls sloped off on their own before the climbing police nabbed them for crimes against gritstone, but then succeeded in turning the tables by fitting in another couple of routes before the close of proceedings.
A challenging day in many ways, but a memorable one nonetheless.
Meet Report. Great Shunner Fell, 15/08/2019.
The day was fine but with a stiff breeze. From Hardraw our route took us north west over easy ground, apart from a stretch of dense, head-high bracken which, to be fair, we had been forewarned about. Arriving in Cotterdale at 11.40am we all agreed it was time for first lunch. Having done well over 3 miles and being exhausted from bracken-bashing, we all thought we deserved it, even those who had had coffee and flapjack before leaving Settle.
From Cotterdale we went up the zig-zag trail through the plantation. When we eventually caught up with Flo (who was waiting patiently for the stragglers ie everyone else) she said we were taking a different route to that planned. It seemed that the good track heading north to Jinglemea wasn’t boggy enough for her liking so instead we headed east straight up the hill to join the Pennine Way. I think this was just a ruse to get us moving faster, stand still for a moment and you’d disappear in the mire. Once on the slab path of the Pennine Way we made good time heading north to the top of Great Shunner Fell. We all agreed it was time to stop for second lunch and take in the views so we tried to get out of the cold wind in the summit shelter.
Heading back southwards along the Pennine Way, we stepped off the Millstone Grit and on to limestone and Flo pointed out some spectacular fossils that looked like tyre tracks.
After about an hour of descent we all agreed it was time for another stop. I was out of tea by now but still it was good to sit in the sun and be out of the wind. The locals didn’t seem to mind the intrusion.
Another mile or so and we were back in Hardraw where, thankfully, the tea shop was still open and a minor tea crisis was averted.
Thanks to the leader for leading and to the drivers for driving. Another quality outing.
Summary. Distance: 10.5miles. Ascent: 1820ft. Avg speed: 2.1mph. Fatalities: 0.
Relive track (recorded by Shirley): https://www.relive.cc/view/rt10007445865
Deer Gallows – Meet Report 13-08-19
It’s a long and boggy slog up to the crag, and the lichenous bloom and heathery ledges makes Deer Gallows a less than inspiring destination nowadays. Nonetheless, a gallant five of us did what we could to honour the CMC’s reputation. Climbs include Left-hand Route (VD); Deer Gallows Chimney (VD); Wreath (VS) and Zig-Zag (MVS)
Burns Night Meet at the Smithy Hut. Revised Date 17/19 2020.
Please change in your diary.
Bookings Open 1 Nov 2019
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