Roaches Weekend & Day Visit
All Day
16/08/2024 – 18/08/2024
The Roaches is one of the special places for Gritstone Climbing. We are staying in the unique Don Whillans Memorial Hut, which is part cut into the Gritstone crag.
Popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. The Upper Tier is more open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, and is usually in condition throughout the year. There are many classics to choose from in fine positions such as Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a) and the infamous The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The area faces southwest receiving the sun from mid-morning. It is often beautiful in late-afternoon sunshine. It catches the wind and dries quickly after rain but offers little shelter from bad weather. Most of the rock is clean although some north-facing sections can be green. The area is interesting as a walking venue as well. For those staying for the weekend, the hut has self catering facilities and bunk beds with mattresses and take your own sleeping bag. Contact the organiser regarding food.
If you are visiting for the day, please contact the organiser direct via WhatsApp
The Roaches is situated to the west of the A53 between Buxton and Leek. At busy times, it is necessary to park at Upper Hulme, on the A53, from where the local council provides a bus link to the crag. At less busy times, parking is available on the road below the crag but please park considerately. From here, a well-worn path leads to the two main tiers past the conspicuous Rockhall Cottage (the Whillans Memorial BMC hut).
