Great End conditions

Was on Dollywagon North, Sat 30th Jan.
Think I lead Rescue Groove (IV), thinking initially it was S Gully. Starts as a gully, thinned to groove/runnel. Good Neve, with some thin sections in upper groove. Turf frozen solid.

Was on Great End Friday 12th Feb with Alex (friend from Halifax). It was pleasantly quiet compared to typical Sat/Sun crowds, with around 5 pairs on the crag. We climbed Central Gully, moving together to the Amphitheatre. Then I lead the Left Hand exit, which was an excellent ice pitch (used 3 screws, and a hex at the start). Belayed on easier snow at full rope stretch, about 40m below summit. We descended Cust's gully then moved over to Window gully. Still in very good condtion. Moved together on shortened rope to top of pitch 3. Alex lead rest of route in one pitch using Upper Icefall exit. This is still in amazing condition - hard,fat, steep ice.